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30.1.2008 Summit Plan

Summit of Everest from 8630 meters
Here you have some information on the route from Advanced Base Camp (ABC) to the summit of Mount Everest. From ABC the route starts on the moraine and undulates up and down on the right hand side of the Eastern Rongbuk Glacier where we move on the ice with crampons on. From there the route goes on around a kilometer to reach the bottom of the wall towards North Col (Chang La).

The conditions of the wall change every year. Within 300 meters the angle of the wall varies between 40-80 degrees. It is either solid ice or hard snow. There may be a need to cross some crevasses using aluminium ladders.

Camp 1 (C1) lies on North Col at the height of 7100 meters.

From C1 the route continues on the North Ridge towards Camp 2 (C2). The first 500-600 meters are snow and changes to rock after that. The height of C2 is around 7600 meters. There are number of sites for C2 along the ridge. We try to reach the site as early as possible since the climbing sherpas of commercial expeditions reserve the best sites very quickly.

From C2 the route continues along the North Ridge moving soon to the North Face. Soon after C2 there is a small rock step and after that easy climbing until Camp 3 (C3) at 8200-8300 meters on moraine or snow.

From C3 the route continues on the North Face until 8380 meters to the North East Ridge. "First Step" is at 8530 meters. It is a 20 meters high, grade 4 rock wall. After that there is easy rock and snow/ice ending on an exposed ridge between Kachenjunga Face and North Face. There is a 3000 meters drop on both sides of the ridge. "Second Step", 30 meters rock wall, is on 8610 meters. After that there is easy rock until "Third Step", the easiest of the three steps, at 8680 meters.

Then there is a moderate climbing until we reach the summit ridge. 200 meters on the summit ridge and we reach the summit at 8848 meters!